I was fortunate enough to grow up in San Diego California so I have been surfing, bodyboarding and bodysurfing most of my teenage and adult life. Being a native Southern Californian I have had my fair share of beach time from Oceanside, Cardiff by the Sea, Solana Beach, Del Mar, Torrey Pines, Blacks, La Jolla Shores, Boomers, Wind N Sea and Coronado.
About ten years ago I fell love with surfing at the beach break at Black’s Beach. I liked how remote it was, the surfers in the line-up were friendly and of course the waves were usually good. Unfortunately once social media and surf apps started becoming popular, soon this once not crowded became a place where mobs of surfers came from all over to surf. Surf etiquette for some reason didn’t to exist. Surfers from other localized beaches would come to Blacks and act like they owned the place. People constantly dropping in on each other and not waiting their turn. Sad really. On a more positive note, I have had the pleasure of meeting and getting to know lots of really great surfers who do follow the rules and respect others in the line-up. You guys know who you are. I enjoy walking up and down the hill with these people and it’s comforting to know there out there when I surf.
Being a bodysurfer, I sometimes don’t get the same respect that you would get if you were a stand-up surfer. I get respect from the people I know in the line-up but not from those who don’t know me. Unfortunately that’s when I feel the need to get aggressive when I’m about to take-off on a wave. Sadly it’s this lack of respect for one another that makes it dangerous out there when the waves are big. I guess I’ll just have to take the good with the bad. I special shout out to my surf photographer friend Blair Austin and Will James Sooter for capturing so many awesome photos over the years. Thanks guys!
